The Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet, often referred to as a "Nietenband" (German for "riveted band"), represents a significant chapter in Rolex's horological history. Its enduring appeal lies not just in its robust construction and elegant simplicity, but also in its connection to a specific era of watchmaking, a time when craftsmanship was paramount and durability was a non-negotiable feature. This article will delve into the specifics of a particular example – a Rolex #1339 ORIGINAL ROLEX C+I OYSTER RIVETED BAND – listed for $136, highlighting its features, historical context, and the significance of its condition and provenance.
The listing itself provides crucial information: a Rolex #1339, original Rolex C+I Oyster riveted band, measuring 17.5 cm / 19 mm, in fair condition, dating back to approximately 1960, and located in Gersthofen, Germany. This seemingly simple description opens a window into a fascinating world of vintage watch collecting and the nuances of assessing a piece like this.
Understanding the Rolex #1339 and its Significance:
The model number, #1339, is a key identifier. While Rolex's internal reference systems are not always publicly accessible in their entirety, the number itself suggests a specific production period and potentially links to specific watch models it was paired with. Further research into Rolex archive data, if available, could reveal more precise details about its intended use and production run. The absence of a readily available comprehensive database for all Rolex bracelet references adds to the allure and challenge of collecting these vintage pieces. Collectors often rely on forums, specialized books, and their own experience to piece together the puzzle.
The description "ORIGINAL ROLEX C+I OYSTER RIVETED BAND" is equally important. "Original" signifies that this is a genuine Rolex bracelet, not a reproduction or aftermarket replacement. This authenticity is crucial for value and desirability. The "C+I" marking refers to the manufacturer's code, further confirming its origin. Many vintage Rolex bracelets were produced by external suppliers to Rolex's specifications, hence the inclusion of such markings. The identification of the manufacturer through the "C+I" code opens up further avenues of research regarding the specific supplier's history and their relationship with Rolex. This level of detail is often a key factor in determining the bracelet's authenticity and value.
The "Oyster" designation underscores the bracelet's connection to Rolex's iconic Oyster case. The Oyster case, known for its waterproofness and robustness, was often paired with similarly durable and well-engineered bracelets. The riveted construction, a hallmark of many vintage Rolex bracelets, is a testament to the engineering philosophy of the time. Rivets, rather than screws, were used to connect the links, creating a stronger, more secure connection, ideal for withstanding the rigors of daily wear. This method of construction also contributed to the bracelet's characteristic look, a visually appealing element for many collectors.
The Condition: "Fair" and its Implications:
The listing's description of the bracelet's condition as "fair" necessitates a closer look. "Fair" in the context of vintage watch collecting is not necessarily negative, but it does indicate the presence of some wear and tear. This could manifest in various ways:
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